I have used the search function to no avail. Im trying to locate a very detailed post from back in 2005 from Amer Speed regarding the proper step by step, 21 step process to change the oil. I believe it came out of the service manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

RickH

Drop 2 rear belly pans, pull 3 drain plugs (2 on pan, one tank), use piece of card board to keep oil off frame when draining tank (GT guys idea), change filter (Mann 926, I use a 36mm socket for housing, and be sure you press new filter down hard enough to feel a click), replace plugs, fill with 9.5 quarts of oil of your choice (TONS of debate here, I use motorcraft 5w50 synth), prime system by pressing accelerator pedal to floor, turn key on, press start button (car will only cycle starter, wont start), replace belly pans after cleaning them (optional).

I find with the belly pans off, I take more time cleaning, than actually changing the oil.

there was a valve Clinton had found that is direct replacement for the tank drain plug to which you can add a tube which makes emptying the tank very easy and a no mess affair.... I would recommend it especially if you are doing you own oil changes

there was a valve Clinton had found that is direct replacement for the tank drain plug to which you can add a tube which makes emptying the tank very easy and a no mess affair.... I would recommend it especially if you are doing you own oil changes

I use one of these and it makes changing the oil so much easier. Before fitting it I could pretty much guarantee that 2of the 9.5 quarts would end up on my shop floor....

I have one of Richs kits, last oil change I forgot I had it, didnt put it on.... Maybe this one Ill remember....

I have found it easier by removing only 1 belly pan. You dont need to remove the 2. The pan closest to the middle of the car is the one to be removed. However there are bolts on the pan close to the center of the car that connect to the middle of the cars underneath and also bolts on the back belly pan that do need to come out. Once theyre out simply slide the pan forward towards the centre of the car. This should give you enough clearance to separate it from the rear pan. Then pull back and down it comes. Install in reverse order. This saves a fair amount of time. As I have determined it takes longer to take the pan down that to actually change the oil.
Correct, hold pedal to floor when starting. My recollection hold pedal down and crank for 15 seconds approx or until you see the oil pressure gauge showing pressure.
Also dont forget to loosen up the oil filter cap (create an air gap) before you lift the car up off the ground. This helps with the drainage of the oil form the engine. Further delay to do it after the car is already up n the air.
I also have the kit and will install it on the next oil change.
Love changing the oil and filter on these cars!

Another tip I might add, I use a cordless drill with a 3/8 socket adapter, then a T27 socket. This speeds the disassembly. BUT to put back together, I start every bolt by hand, then go to the drill, which has a torque setting. I put that at its lowest setting to spin them in, then torque to tightness by hand. Dont want to be stripping any j clips or nutserts. Ill keep taking both pans down, to at least get the rocks out (but I find I fully wash the pans each time)

Rocks?? What Rocks?? Specracer where you driving this thing?? A few parts and tools falling down maybe!!
Whatever rocks (hehehe) your boat my friend.

Clutch down I get, why throttle? wont it start before 15 seconds or time get sump going?

Clutch down I get, why throttle? wont it start before 15 seconds or time get sump going?

steve, throttle and clutch down all the way will not let the car start. it must shut off the fuel.

Extra safety.

Right hand on key. Press start with left hand.

If the engine starts, because maybe your throttle foot twitched (or whatever), you can kill ignition instantly.

Hey Junior, thats the 21 step process I was looking for. Good catch. Thanks to everyone for their replies.

I use an oil extractor to empty the tank. No mess at all. I do pull the engine plugs to get the last bit of oil out.

I have an oil pan that fits under the tank between the frame rail and lift ramp that I zip tie to hold in place, so no mess there. Now the filter and cap is another story.

Now the filter and cap is another story.

Loosen the cap enough to let air in the top and the oil will drain back down. Good to have some patience here.....

Happy 4th!! Thank you thank you for this invention!!

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